City of the Dead: The Double Dead Tour

When you’re planning a trip to Edinburgh, you’ll find no shortage of ghost tours and historical walks. But this particular experience cuts through the tourist noise and delivers something genuinely memorable. We’ve reviewed the City of the Dead’s Double Dead Tour extensively, and what impresses us most is how it manages to be both historically substantive and entertainingly spooky without tipping into cheesy territory. The guides consistently earn praise for blending legitimate historical knowledge with engaging storytelling, and the tour’s exclusive access to restricted areas—particularly the Covenanters Prison in Greyfriars Graveyard—gives you entry to places most Edinburgh visitors never see.

That said, there’s one consideration worth noting upfront: the tour runs for nearly two hours and involves walking through damp, atmospheric underground spaces and navigating graveyards at night. If you’re uncomfortable with stairs, tight underground passages, or genuinely prefer your history delivered in daylight, this might not be your tour. The weather can also play a significant role in your experience, as Edinburgh’s unpredictable climate means you could find yourself in anything from pleasant evening air to driving rain and wind.

For the right person—someone who appreciates genuine history, doesn’t scare easily (or enjoys being scared), and wants to see a side of Edinburgh that most travelers miss—this tour delivers exceptional value and an evening you’ll genuinely remember.

What You’re Actually Getting for Your Money

At $31.90 per person, this tour costs less than a decent dinner in most Edinburgh restaurants, yet it includes something most paid experiences don’t: exclusive access. You’re not just walking past locked gates and reading plaques. You’re actually descending into the South Bridge Vaults—real 18th-century underground chambers—and entering the Covenanters Prison, an area cordoned off from regular graveyard visitors.

The price also includes a local expert guide, which matters far more than you might initially think. The reviews make clear that the quality of your guide fundamentally shapes whether this tour feels like a legitimate historical experience or a carnival attraction. Fortunately, the 96% recommendation rate and nearly perfect 5.0 rating suggest the company has figured out how to consistently hire people who know their material and can actually tell a story.

What’s notably not included is transportation to and from the meeting points, which is worth factoring in if you’re not staying near the city center. However, both the starting point (St Giles’ Cathedral on the High Street) and ending point (Greyfriars Kirkyard) sit near Edinburgh’s public transportation network, so this isn’t a major obstacle for most travelers.

The Two Stops That Make This Tour Unique

The South Bridge Vaults: Underground History You Can Touch

The first major portion of your tour takes you beneath the South Bridge into chambers that have been sealed, forgotten, and rediscovered multiple times since their construction in the 1780s. These aren’t reconstructed historical sites or modern attractions built to look old. They’re actual underground spaces that once housed businesses, storage, and—according to historical records—activities that were decidedly less legitimate.

What makes this stop work so well is that the guides seem genuinely knowledgeable about the archaeology and social history of these spaces. One reviewer who’d done a similar tour the evening before noted being “pleasantly surprised” by how different this experience was, with guides taking them to “different underground vaults” and sharing “spooky history and stories.” The darkness is part of the experience—it’s not artificial atmosphere created by lights and sound effects, but actual atmospheric conditions that let your imagination fill in the gaps.

The vaults have a reputation among paranormal enthusiasts, and guides will share stories about the phenomena people claim to have experienced there. But these aren’t presented as gospel truth; they’re offered as part of the layered history of the spaces. One traveler mentioned being “pleased to hear whistling and footsteps in the Niddry St vaults,” suggesting that whether you believe in the paranormal or not, the spaces themselves create an undeniably atmospheric environment.

Greyfriars Kirkyard and the Covenanters Prison: Where History Gets Dark

The second half of your tour moves above ground to one of Edinburgh’s most historically significant graveyards. Greyfriars Kirkyard is where you’ll visit the Covenanters Prison—a restricted area within the cemetery where political and religious prisoners were held in brutal conditions during the 17th century. This isn’t a well-trodden tourist path. The fact that this tour includes exclusive access to this area is genuinely significant.

The graveyard itself holds centuries of Edinburgh history, with graves dating back hundreds of years. But the Covenanters Prison specifically tells the story of religious conflict and political imprisonment in Scotland’s past. Guides connect these historical dots in ways that make the cemetery feel less like a tourist attraction and more like a place where genuinely important historical events occurred.

Multiple reviewers emphasized how much they appreciated this access. One noted, “The vaults seemed a little dragged out,” but that same person acknowledged the graveyard portion was “very good and it would interest every age.” Another reviewer specifically highlighted enjoying “exclusive access to the Covenanters Prison,” suggesting this element alone justifies the tour price.

What the Guides Actually Bring to This Experience

You'll notice something immediately if you read through the reviews: people consistently praise specific guides by name. Ben, Nat, Grant, Ian, Charlie, Rebecca—these aren't anonymous tour operators. They're individuals who've apparently built reputations for making this experience special.

The consistent thread through nearly all positive reviews is that guides manage to balance three elements that can easily tip into disaster if mishandled: history, humor, and genuine atmosphere. One reviewer described their guide as someone who "combines humor and horror with ease." Another noted that the guide was "full of banter which made the experience 100x better" while also being "full of knowledge."

Importantly, guides seem to understand their audience. One reviewer who identified as "a scaredy cat" noted the tour "wasn't dreadfully scary" but still delivered plenty of atmosphere and entertainment. Another family with teenagers mentioned the guide "made sure that everyone was safe" while remaining "very engaging with his storytelling." This suggests guides are skilled at calibrating the experience for different comfort levels rather than just delivering a one-size-fits-all performance.

That said, there's one negative review worth considering. One traveler felt the tour ran significantly over time (ending around 10:15 PM instead of the scheduled 9:30-9:45 PM finish), which was particularly frustrating because "we could no longer see anything" and "it didn't feel like added value." This seems to be an outlier, but it's worth knowing that pacing can occasionally be an issue, particularly with older adults or people who tire easily on walking tours.

Practical Details That Actually Matter

Group Size and Intimacy

The tour accommodates a maximum of five travelers per group. This is genuinely valuable information. You're not joining a 30-person herd shuffling through underground passages. You're in an intimate group where the guide can actually interact with everyone, answer questions, and adjust the pace based on the group's needs. This maximum size almost certainly contributes to the consistently high satisfaction rates—there's no way to do a quality experience with 50 people crammed into 18th-century vaults.

Timing and What to Expect

The tour runs for approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes, though as noted above, timing can occasionally stretch longer. The fact that this is an evening tour matters. You're experiencing these spaces in darkness (or at least twilight), which fundamentally changes the atmosphere compared to a daytime historical tour. One reviewer specifically noted that "the darkness really adds to the spookiness," and another appreciated being able to "see the sites at night."

Most travelers book this tour 65 days in advance on average, which suggests it's popular but not impossible to book last-minute. One reviewer mentioned booking "at last minute as many of the other tours were fully booked," so it's not a situation where you need to plan months ahead.

Physical Accessibility Considerations

The tour involves navigating underground passages, climbing stairs, and walking through a graveyard on uneven ground at night. One reviewer who's "very tall or unsteady on feet" was advised to "be mindful of your steps," but the same person noted the tour was "really accessible for lots of folks." This suggests it's manageable for most people with reasonable mobility, but it's not a tour for someone with significant physical limitations.

The weather can significantly impact your experience. One group toured through "Storm Amy with very high winds and rain," and rather than diminishing the experience, they noted it "made it a little more spooktacular." However, another group found that heavy rain and slick sidewalks made it harder to keep pace with the guide, particularly for older adults. The tour does require good weather to operate, so if conditions are particularly severe, you might be offered a different date or full refund.

Mobile Tickets and Flexibility

You'll receive a mobile ticket, which means you don't need to worry about printing confirmations or carrying physical paperwork. The tour offers free cancellation up to 24 hours in advance, giving you flexibility if plans change or weather looks particularly grim.

Who Should Actually Book This Tour

This experience works best for travelers who fall into a few categories. First, if you're interested in actual Scottish history—particularly the darker chapters involving religious conflict and social conditions in historical Edinburgh—this tour delivers genuine substance alongside the entertainment. You're learning about real historical events and spaces, not just being spooked for entertainment's sake.

Second, if you enjoy atmospheric experiences and aren't bothered by darkness, tight spaces, or the idea of spending an evening in a graveyard, you'll find this genuinely engaging. This isn't a tour for people who need constant bright lighting and cheerful ambiance.

Third, if you want to see a side of Edinburgh that most travelers never access, the exclusive entry to the Covenanters Prison and the restricted areas of Greyfriars Kirkyard makes this worthwhile. You're seeing spaces that are literally off-limits to casual visitors.

Finally, if you appreciate good storytelling and knowledgeable local guides, the consistency of praise for the tour's guides suggests you'll have an engaging evening. This isn't a tour that relies on cheap scares or theatrical nonsense—it's built on the guides' ability to tell stories well.

Conversely, if you're traveling with very young children (the minimum age is 12), prefer your history delivered in daylight, or have mobility limitations, this probably isn't your best option.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does this tour actually cost, and what's included?

The tour costs $31.90 per person and includes a local expert guide and admission to both the South Bridge Vaults and the Covenanters Prison. What's not included is transportation to the meeting points, though both are near public transit. For the price, you're getting exclusive access to areas most Edinburgh visitors never see, which represents solid value.

What if the weather is terrible?

The tour requires good weather to operate safely. If conditions are particularly poor, you'll be offered either a different date or a full refund. Even so, some groups have found that rain and wind actually enhance the atmospheric experience—though this depends on how severe the weather is and your personal comfort level with being outdoors in less-than-ideal conditions.

Can I cancel if I change my mind?

Yes, you can cancel free of charge up to 24 hours before the tour starts. If you cancel less than 24 hours in advance, you'll lose your payment. This gives you reasonable flexibility while still protecting the tour operator's ability to staff the experience.

Is this tour actually scary, or is it more historical?

It's genuinely a blend of both, calibrated to avoid being dreadfully frightening while still maintaining atmosphere. One reviewer who identified as a "scaredy cat" enjoyed it without feeling overwhelmed. The guides seem skilled at adjusting the tone based on their group's comfort level. You'll learn real history and hear spooky stories, but it's not a haunted house experience.

How many people will be on my tour?

Maximum of five travelers per group. This keeps the experience intimate and allows the guide to interact meaningfully with everyone rather than just herding a large crowd through the spaces.

What should I wear and bring?

Given that you'll be walking through damp underground spaces and a graveyard at night, wear comfortable walking shoes with good grip (the underground passages and graveyards can be slippery) and bring a light jacket. You'll be moving between cooler underground areas and above-ground spaces, so layering makes sense. The tour typically runs in the evening, and Edinburgh weather can turn quickly, so being prepared for rain is wise.

The Bottom Line

This tour delivers genuine value for the price and consistently earns near-perfect ratings for good reason. You're getting exclusive access to historically significant spaces, guides who actually know how to tell a story, and an evening that shows you a side of Edinburgh most travelers never see. The maximum group size of five keeps the experience intimate, and the guides' ability to balance history, humor, and atmosphere means you're not paying for theatrical nonsense. If you're interested in Scottish history, appreciate a well-told story, and don't mind spending an evening in atmospheric underground spaces and graveyards, this tour is worth booking. At under $32 per person, it represents one of Edinburgh's best values for a guided experience that genuinely delivers on its promise to show you something different.