Lisbon wasn’t on our radar for ages. We kept choosing the obvious ones — Barcelona, Paris, the south of France — and somehow never got round to Portugal. Massive mistake. Because Lisbon turned out to be one of the best city breaks we’ve done as a family. Affordable, interesting, genuinely warm (both the weather and the people), and the kind of place where even the fussy eater found something to inhale. We went with a four-year-old and a seven-year-old, spent four days, and left planning the next trip before we’d even cleared passport control.
Here’s everything we’d tell a friend.
Getting There
Two and a half to three hours from most UK airports. That’s it. Short enough that nobody loses the plot, long enough to watch a film and eat an overpriced Pret sandwich. Ryanair, easyJet, Wizz Air, and the usual budget lot all fly there, so you can often grab return flights for under £50 per person if you book early enough. TAP Air Portugal is the flag carrier and perfectly decent too.
Lisbon airport is close to the city centre — about twenty minutes by taxi or metro. We got a taxi for around €15 and were at our apartment before the kids had finished arguing about who got the best bedroom.
How Many Days
Three is enough. Four is ideal. We had four and the pace felt exactly right — enough time to see the big things without rushing, plus a morning at the beach and a slow lunch that stretched into the afternoon because the wine was cheap and the kids were happy.
Two days would feel frantic. Five would have us running out of steam. Three to four is the sweet spot for families.
The Hills — A Warning
Right. Before we get into what to see, let’s talk about the hills. Lisbon is HILLY. Not gently-undulating-English-countryside hilly. Properly, aggressively, why-is-this-pavement-at-a-forty-degree-angle hilly. Cobblestoned too, which makes it worse.
If you’re bringing a stroller, know that you will be hauling it up slopes that feel like they were designed as a punishment. In the old town — Alfama especially — the streets are narrow, uneven, and steep enough to make your calves burn. We ditched the buggy on day two and switched to a carrier for the little one. Best decision of the trip.
Use the trams, the funiculars, or book a tuk-tuk for the steep bits. There are also a few lifts dotted around the city — the Elevador da Glória and Elevador da Bica are basically outdoor escalators that save you a hill climb. Use them. Your knees will thank you.
Tram 28
You’ll see it in every Lisbon guidebook. The iconic yellow tram that rattles through the narrow streets of the old town. And yes, it’s lovely to look at and fun in theory.
In practice? Packed. Absolutely rammed with travelers, often with standing room only. And pickpockets love it — we saw warnings everywhere and heard firsthand accounts from other families. With small children it’s not ideal. Getting a stroller on is basically impossible, and even with kids on foot you’ll be squashed against strangers while the tram lurches round corners.
Our advice: ride it once for the novelty. The kids thought it was brilliant — the rattling, the tight turns, the bells. It costs €3.20 per ride, or you can get a day pass which covers trams and buses. But don’t rely on it as actual transport. Once is enough. A tuk-tuk does the same route with less stress and more commentary.
Alfama
The oldest neighbourhood in Lisbon and our favourite part of the city. Narrow cobbled lanes that twist and turn, crumbling tiled buildings in every colour, laundry strung between balconies. It looks exactly like the postcards. The kids loved exploring the alleyways — it felt like a maze, and every turn revealed a new staircase or tiny square with a cat sleeping in the sun.
The big draw here is Castelo de São Jorge, the Moorish castle perched at the top of the hill. It’s €10 for adults and free for under 12s. The castle itself is interesting enough — old walls, a few peacocks wandering about, some archaeological bits — but the real reason to go is the view. Honestly extraordinary. You can see the entire city, the river, the bridge. Worth every cent of the entry fee and every bead of sweat from the walk up.
The miradouros (viewpoints) scattered around Alfama are free and nearly as good. Miradouro da Graça and Miradouro das Portas do Sol are both gorgeous. Grab an ice cream and sit for a bit.
Belém
A short tram ride or taxi west of the centre, and absolutely worth a half day at minimum.
The headline act is Pastéis de Belém. The original custard tart shop. The one that’s been making them since 1837 using the same secret recipe. At €1.30 each, you’d be mad not to order several. They arrive warm, crispy, slightly caramelised on top, and genuinely better than any other pastel de nata we tried in Lisbon (and we tried a lot). The queue outside looks terrifying but moves fast, or you can walk past it and sit inside — the place is enormous, all blue-and-white tiles and waiters who’ve seen a million travelers and remain unflappable.
While you’re in Belém, the Jerónimos Monastery is stunning. Huge, ornate, and genuinely impressive even to children who’d normally rather be doing anything else. The cloisters are beautiful. Entry to the church is free; the cloisters cost around €10.
Belém Tower is just down the road. Photogenic from the outside, a bit cramped inside, and the queue can be long. We looked at it from the waterfront, took some photos, and moved on. The kids weren’t fussed.
The National Coach Museum (Museu dos Coches) nearby is surprisingly good if your children are into vehicles or history. Elaborate royal carriages from the 1700s, some of them absurdly ornate. Our seven-year-old was fascinated. Quick visit — an hour tops.
Oceanário de Lisboa
One of the best aquariums in Europe. Not an exaggeration. The centrepiece is a massive central tank visible from every floor, with sharks, rays, sunfish, and shoals of fish drifting past. Around it, separate habitats recreate the Atlantic, Pacific, Indian, and Antarctic oceans with penguins, sea otters, and all the things kids lose their minds over.
Tickets are €25 for adults and €17 for children. Not cheap, but you’ll get a solid two to three hours out of it and the kids won’t complain once. Ours rated it above the castle, which is saying something.
It’s in the Parque das Nações area, which is modern and flat — a nice break from the hills of the old town. There’s a cable car along the waterfront too, which the kids enjoyed.
Tuk-Tuk Tours
We were sceptical. Felt a bit touristy, a bit gimmicky. But someone recommended it and we’re glad we listened.
The tuk-tuks are everywhere in Lisbon and you can either hail one on the street or book in advance. A city tour costs roughly €40–80 depending on length and route. The drivers give running commentary — history, local tips, restaurant recommendations — and they navigate the steep narrow streets with terrifying confidence. The kids absolutely loved it. The wind in their hair, the sharp turns, the feeling of being in a little adventure vehicle.
More importantly, it solved the hill problem. Instead of trudging uphill with a whining child on your shoulders, you zip up in a tuk-tuk and arrive at the viewpoint fresh and happy. Money well spent.
LX Factory
A converted industrial complex under the 25 de Abril bridge. Old warehouses turned into restaurants, bars, shops, a brilliant bookshop (Ler Devagar — enormous, with a bike suspended from the ceiling), and various creative studios. On Sundays there’s a market with food stalls and crafts.
Honestly, this is more interesting for the parents than the kids. We loved browsing the bookshop and eating at one of the street food places. The children were entertained enough — there’s enough to look at and the atmosphere is relaxed — but it’s not a destination for them specifically. A nice lunch stop or late afternoon wander rather than a main event.
Beaches — Cascais
Half an hour by train from Cais do Sodré station and you’re in Cascais, a pretty coastal town with sandy beaches, a promenade, and excellent seafood restaurants. The train costs €2.30 each way and runs regularly. Dead simple.
The beach is clean and family-friendly. The town itself is lovely for a wander — gelato shops, a small fort, fishing boats in the harbour. We spent a morning on the sand and had grilled fish for lunch overlooking the sea. Perfect half-day escape from the city, and the train journey along the coast is scenic enough that the kids didn’t even ask for a screen.
If you want something quieter, Praia de Carcavelos is a few stops before Cascais and has a bigger, wider stretch of sand.
Food
Lisbon is absurdly good value for food. We ate well — really well — for a fraction of what the same meals would cost in London or Paris.
The star of the show is the pastel de nata. Custard tarts. They’re everywhere, they cost about €1–1.50 each, and they’re almost always good. The kids had at least one a day. Sometimes two. No regrets.
Beyond that: grilled sardines are a Lisbon staple and served at practically every traditional restaurant. Whole, on the plate, no messing about. Our seven-year-old demolished them. The four-year-old was less keen, but that’s fussy eaters for you.
Bifana sandwiches — thin pork in a bread roll with mustard — are brilliant, filling, and cost €3–4. Street food at its best. If your kids eat meat, they’ll love these.
Grilled fish is king. Sea bream, sea bass, bacalhau (salt cod) in about a thousand different preparations. Portions are generous, prices are kind, and the quality is consistently high.
For the parents: Portuguese wine is spectacular and cheap. A glass of vinho verde (light, slightly fizzy white wine) with lunch costs €2–3 and pairs perfectly with grilled fish and a sunny terrace. A bottle in a restaurant rarely tops €15.
Where to Stay
Three areas that work well for families.
Baixa/Chiado is our top recommendation. It’s the flattest part of central Lisbon, which matters enormously when you’ve got children and luggage. Plenty of restaurants, shops, and easy access to transport. The main squares (Praça do Comércio and Rossio) are both here. Central without being noisy, and you can walk to most things.
Alfama is atmospheric and beautiful, but steep. Very steep. If your kids are old enough to walk confidently on cobblestones and you’re not bringing a stroller, it’s a brilliant place to base yourself. Waking up to those views and the sound of the trams is special. But hauling shopping bags up those hills after a supermarket run gets old fast.
Belém is quieter and more spread out. Great if the monastery, tower, and pastéis are high on your list, and you want a more residential feel. Less nightlife, fewer restaurants, but peaceful and well-connected by tram to the centre.
Practical Bits
Tap water is safe to drink. Fill up your bottles and save yourself a fortune on bottled water.
Lisbon is affordable. Noticeably cheaper than most western European capitals. Meals out, transport, attractions — everything feels like good value compared to London, Paris, or Barcelona.
The weather is warm for most of the year. Even in spring and autumn you’re looking at comfortable temperatures. Summer gets properly hot — 30°C plus — so if you’re going July or August, plan indoor activities for the middle of the day and hit the beaches early.
Portuguese people are wonderful with children. This isn’t something you always notice, but in Lisbon it was striking. Waiters chatting to the kids, strangers smiling at them, nobody tutting when the four-year-old knocked over a glass. It felt genuinely welcoming in a way that some cities don’t.
Language: Most people in Lisbon speak English, especially anyone working in tourism or hospitality. But learning “obrigado” (thank you) goes a long way and the kids enjoyed saying it.
The Lisboa Card is worth looking into if you’re planning to hit several paid attractions. It covers transport and free or discounted entry to loads of museums and sites. A 72-hour card is around €46 for adults. Do the maths for your specific plans — it saved us about €20 each over three days.
Final Thoughts
Lisbon is one of those cities that just works for families. It’s close, it’s cheap, it’s warm, and there’s enough to keep both the kids and the grown-ups interested without anyone feeling like they’re compromising. The food is great. The people are kind. The light is beautiful — golden and soft in a way that makes even your phone photos look professional.
Go for three or four days. Eat your body weight in custard tarts. Take a tuk-tuk up the hills. Watch the sunset from a miradouro with a glass of something cold.
You won’t regret it. We certainly didn’t.