Riga of Spies: A Deep Dive into Latvia’s Secret Past

If you’re curious about the covert side of Riga’s history, the Riga of Spies tour promises an engaging journey through the city’s shadowy past. This experience is designed for those who love mysteries, enigmas, and a good dose of espionage drama intertwined with history. From secret agents to clandestine activities, this tour offers a unique perspective that goes beyond typical sightseeing.
What really caught our eye are two qualities of this tour: First, the expert guides—with academic degrees in history and theology—they bring a wealth of knowledge grounded in archival sources, making every story feel well-researched and credible. Second, the location variety—from Old Town to embassies and Art Nouveau streets—gives a well-rounded picture of Riga’s historical layers.
However, a possible consideration is that the tour runs around 3 hours, which might be a bit long if you prefer shorter sightseeing sessions or are traveling with very young children (though not explicitly family-focused). That said, if you’re into history, espionage, or just love stories of secret societies and covert operations, this tour will likely be right up your alley.
This experience suits curious travelers who want something more than just the usual. It’s perfect if you’re interested in Latvian history, Cold War secrets, or just enjoy uncovering stories of intrigue in a charming city setting.
You can check availability for your dates here:Key Points

- Focused on espionage and secret histories: This tour explores Riga’s covert activities, from the 18th-century freemasons to Cold War spies.
- Educational and well-researched: Guides hold advanced degrees and base their stories on archives and scientific literature.
- Variety of sights and neighborhoods: Includes Old Town, embassies, Art Nouveau streets, and notable buildings like the KGB headquarters.
- Approximately 3 hours long: Good for those wanting an in-depth but manageable experience.
- Private guide for personalized storytelling: The tour is strictly private, which allows for tailored attention and questions.
- Food and drinks at the end: Concludes at a traditional Latvian restaurant where you can relax and enjoy local cuisine.
Planning more time in Riga? We've covered other experiences worth considering.
Unpacking the Experience: What to Expect on the Riga of Spies Tour

This tour kicks off at the Freedom Monument, a symbol of Latvian independence, setting the tone for a historical deep dive into Riga’s secret past. The guide, a knowledgeable professional with academic credentials, leads the way through the city’s streets, sharing stories that feel both fascinating and credible. As you walk, you’ll explore the Old Town, with its charming houses and historical architecture, but with a focus on stories of espionage and covert activities that many travelers may not know.
The Itinerary: A Closer Look
1. The Great Northern War & Latvian Spies for Sweden
We loved how the guide explained a little-known bit of history: Latvian spies working for Sweden against the Russians during the battles of Narva. It’s a reminder that Riga’s strategic position has made it a hotbed for espionage for centuries.
2. Rituals of 18th-Century Freemasonry
Next, we visited the houses connected to Latvian freemasons. The stories about secret rituals and societies reveal a different layer of Riga’s cultural fabric, intertwined with clandestine meetings and hidden symbols.
3. Riga Black Balsam & Economic Espionage
A fun highlight was the story of Riga Black Balsam, a legendary Latvian herbal liqueur. Historically, there are tales of espionage related to its trade—these stories show how even everyday products can have secret histories.
4. Tsarist Police vs. Revolutionaries
You’ll see sites linked to tsarist police efforts against revolutionaries, anarchists, and Bolsheviks—covering a turbulent period in Latvian history. It’s a reminder of how Riga was a battleground for political and ideological conflicts.
5. German and Russian Secret Service Duel
During WWI, Riga was a field for intelligence clashes between German and Russian spies. The guide shares colorful stories about these clandestine confrontations that shaped the city’s wartime history.
6. The Murder of Soviet Diplomatic Courier Theodor Nette
One of the tour’s gripping stories involves the mysterious death of a Soviet diplomat’s courier, adding intrigue and a touch of Cold War drama.
7. Latvian Secret Services & NKVD Activities
The narrative also covers Latvia’s own secret services, including the Tcheka and NKVD, which played roles in Latvia’s darker political chapters.
8. German Military Intelligence & the Abwehr
The tour points out where the German Abwehr operated in Riga, giving context to Latvia’s strategic importance during WWII.
9. British MI6 & KGB Rivalries
We found it fascinating that Riga served as a battleground for British and Soviet intelligence, with references to James Bond-like stories against the backdrop of the KGB.
10. The Mitrokhin Archives
Finally, the guide discusses the famous Mitrokhin archives—a treasure trove of KGB secrets—highlighting Riga’s role in Cold War espionage.
The Sights & Hidden Gems
Throughout the tour, you’ll see key sites linked to these stories: the Swedish gates, powder tower, and the Black Balsam café where local lore and history blend. The embassies of Russia, Sweden, and Britain are prominently featured, giving a sense of Riga’s diplomatic past.
The KGB building is a highlight—an imposing structure that still bears witness to its secret past. You’ll also visit the office of Smersh near Riga’s Great Guild, a reminder of Soviet counterintelligence. Along the way, the guide shares fascinating tidbits like the building where Soviet TV’s Sherlock Holmes was supposedly based, adding a playful touch.
More Great Tours NearbyThe End at a Latvian Inn
The tour wraps up at a traditional Latvian restaurant named Lido-Vermanitis. Here, you can unwind over affordable, hearty meals and sample Riga Black Balsam or local beers—an ideal way to process all the stories you’ve heard and soak in the relaxed, old-world atmosphere.
The Practical Side: Logistics and Value

This private tour is priced with the understanding that you get a dedicated guide, which makes the experience more intimate and flexible. The tour lasts about 3 hours, which is a good length for those wanting a thorough exploration without it feeling rushed. It starts at the Freedom Monument and ends at the restaurant, so you won’t have to worry about transportation logistics during the tour.
You can choose the timing—anywhere from 10 am to 9 pm—based on your schedule, which offers a lot of flexibility. The guide speaks several languages—English, French, German, and Russian—making it accessible to many travelers. Since entry to museums or exhibitions isn’t included, you may want to budget separately for any additional visits, but the focus on storytelling makes up for that.
The cost, considering the depth of knowledge and personalized attention, is quite reasonable. The guide’s expertise, rooted in academic research, adds legitimacy that many travelers appreciate.
Who Will Enjoy This Tour?

This experience is perfect for history buffs, mystery lovers, and anyone who enjoys stories of espionage and intrigue. Given the focus on secret societies, Cold War stories, and historical covert operations, it’s best suited for adults or older teens with an interest in these topics.
It’s not explicitly marketed as family-friendly, but if your family is curious about history and enjoys storytelling, you could consider it. Just note that the content can be quite detailed and complex.
Final Thoughts

The Riga of Spies tour offers a compelling look into Latvia’s lesser-known, secretive past. It’s ideal for travelers who want a more personalized, story-driven experience rather than just ticking off landmarks. The combination of well-researched stories, diverse sights, and the chance to learn about Riga’s clandestine history makes it a standout activity.
While it might feel a little long for some, the depth of knowledge and the variety of stories make every minute worth it. Plus, finishing up at a cozy Latvian restaurant allows you to soak in the atmosphere and perhaps share your own stories of intrigue.
If you’re a fan of history, mystery, and uncovering stories hidden in plain sight, this tour will definitely be a highlight of your Riga trip.
Riga of Spies
FAQs
Is the tour suitable for children?
The tour is geared more toward adults or older teens interested in history and espionage stories. It doesn’t specifically mention family-friendliness, and some stories involve political intrigue and wartime espionage that might not be suitable for very young children.
How long does the tour last?
The tour takes about 3 hours, making it a manageable yet in-depth experience. You can check availability for different starting times from 10 am to 9 pm.
Where does the tour start and end?
It begins at the Freedom Monument and concludes at the Lido-Vermanitis restaurant in Riga’s Old Town, so transportation is straightforward.
What languages are available for the guide?
Guides operate in English, French, German, and Russian, allowing for a broad range of travelers to participate comfortably.
Is the tour private?
Yes, it’s a private group experience, ensuring personalized attention and storytelling tailored to your interests.
Are entries to museums included?
No, entries to museums and exhibitions are not included—so you might want to plan for any additional visits or admissions if desired.
What is the cost and value?
While the price isn’t specified here, the focus on expert guides and in-depth stories suggests good value for those interested in historical espionage.
Can I cancel the tour?
Yes, you can cancel up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund, offering flexibility if your plans change.
What should I wear or bring?
Comfortable walking shoes are recommended, as you’ll explore Old Town streets, yards, and buildings. Bringing a phone or camera is optional but encouraged to capture the sights and stories.
This tour is a clever mix of history, mystery, and local lore, perfect for those who want a deeper understanding of Riga’s complex past—beyond the usual sightseeing.
You can check availability for your dates here:More Tour Reviews in Riga
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